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	<title>Comments on: About Me</title>
	<atom:link href="http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://theautobodyblog.com</link>
	<description>DEDICATED TO THE COLLISION REPAIR TECHNICIAN</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 09 May 2012 17:17:20 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/comment-page-1/#comment-108089</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 May 2012 17:17:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/#comment-108089</guid>
		<description>One word of caution here Deven, the OEM primer MUST be wax and greesed removed before sealing unsanded factory E-Coat. 

I used to just seal the inners without scuffing them but ALWAYS sanded the outsides of the parts, especially on front end parts where rock chips become a factor. I guess I was too chickin to just spray unsanded OEM parts !!! Most OEM parts are rough straight out of the box so I always sanded them down before I sealed and painted. 

Thanks for the comment Deven,

~Mike</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>One word of caution here Deven, the OEM primer MUST be wax and greesed removed before sealing unsanded factory E-Coat. </p>
<p>I used to just seal the inners without scuffing them but ALWAYS sanded the outsides of the parts, especially on front end parts where rock chips become a factor. I guess I was too chickin to just spray unsanded OEM parts !!! Most OEM parts are rough straight out of the box so I always sanded them down before I sealed and painted. </p>
<p>Thanks for the comment Deven,</p>
<p>~Mike</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Deven</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/comment-page-1/#comment-107947</link>
		<dc:creator>Deven</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 May 2012 02:49:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/#comment-107947</guid>
		<description>So I just learned recently that i dont need to scuff new oem parts before sealing them. Is there people out there having problems with adhesion with just spraying sealer over unscuffed oem e-coat? Im nervous to try it. Would really speed things up tho!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>So I just learned recently that i dont need to scuff new oem parts before sealing them. Is there people out there having problems with adhesion with just spraying sealer over unscuffed oem e-coat? Im nervous to try it. Would really speed things up tho!</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/comment-page-1/#comment-72246</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 2012 06:04:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/#comment-72246</guid>
		<description>Hi Shane, not that I know of, but I will check into it for you and email you back once I find out for sure.

Thanks,

~Mike</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Shane, not that I know of, but I will check into it for you and email you back once I find out for sure.</p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>~Mike</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Shane</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/comment-page-1/#comment-71776</link>
		<dc:creator>Shane</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Feb 2012 23:21:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/#comment-71776</guid>
		<description>Hello Mike
I just wanted to know if they make any single stage water base paint yet?
Thanks Shane</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello Mike<br />
I just wanted to know if they make any single stage water base paint yet?<br />
Thanks Shane</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Mark</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/comment-page-1/#comment-17454</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Dec 2011 02:42:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/#comment-17454</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the response mike. Yeah I do mix the base 50/50 with 490. It seems to really be more of an issue in the cases where the ground coat is alot whiter than the car. Just kinda at a loss I have pretty much tried everything. The only other thing I have not tried was mixing groundcoat and pearlcoat 50/50 to hide the blend transition. This was a solution I was told before while using standox solvent based paint. It worked good with solvent but I dont know with the water. Thanks again for the input. Any other suggestions let me know.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the response mike. Yeah I do mix the base 50/50 with 490. It seems to really be more of an issue in the cases where the ground coat is alot whiter than the car. Just kinda at a loss I have pretty much tried everything. The only other thing I have not tried was mixing groundcoat and pearlcoat 50/50 to hide the blend transition. This was a solution I was told before while using standox solvent based paint. It worked good with solvent but I dont know with the water. Thanks again for the input. Any other suggestions let me know.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/comment-page-1/#comment-15774</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 22 Dec 2011 05:55:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/#comment-15774</guid>
		<description>Hey Mark, thanks for the question. You mentioned you blended out the ground coat. Did you blend it out using T490 mixing the ground coat 50/50. I put two or three coats of the ground down and then mix the color with T490 50/50 and blend it out past where I stopped the last coat of color. That will hide the the blend out and you will not see where you stopped the last coat of ground. Please try that out and let me know what happens.

Thanks Mark,

~Mike.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Mark, thanks for the question. You mentioned you blended out the ground coat. Did you blend it out using T490 mixing the ground coat 50/50. I put two or three coats of the ground down and then mix the color with T490 50/50 and blend it out past where I stopped the last coat of color. That will hide the the blend out and you will not see where you stopped the last coat of ground. Please try that out and let me know what happens.</p>
<p>Thanks Mark,</p>
<p>~Mike.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Mark</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/comment-page-1/#comment-11865</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 18 Dec 2011 00:35:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/#comment-11865</guid>
		<description>Hi, I was wondering if you have any tips for blending tri coat whites. Ive been spraying ppg envirobase for about 8 months now pretty much love the product I just have a few issues blending some silvers and have a real annoying problem with the white pearls. I sprayed 37J today and blended out the ground coat real nice into the door everything looked good but as soon as I put the first coat of pearl down it showed a dramatic difference in color I could see exactly where the groundcoat stopped. I have had this issue now two or three times in the last couple weeks and just want to fix the problem. Usually have no issues anywhere else just the middle of the door area. Fenders and hoods I can hide it in body lines. Any advise please let me now. Thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi, I was wondering if you have any tips for blending tri coat whites. Ive been spraying ppg envirobase for about 8 months now pretty much love the product I just have a few issues blending some silvers and have a real annoying problem with the white pearls. I sprayed 37J today and blended out the ground coat real nice into the door everything looked good but as soon as I put the first coat of pearl down it showed a dramatic difference in color I could see exactly where the groundcoat stopped. I have had this issue now two or three times in the last couple weeks and just want to fix the problem. Usually have no issues anywhere else just the middle of the door area. Fenders and hoods I can hide it in body lines. Any advise please let me now. Thanks.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Johnny</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/comment-page-1/#comment-965</link>
		<dc:creator>Johnny</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 Nov 2011 22:36:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/#comment-965</guid>
		<description>Hi from France to Mike
I&#039;ve been in Calgary for a while and it&#039;s a nice place to live in and work in body shop
I don&#039;t know that much about PPG waterborne except for their high end clear products
As for me I &#039;m used to Spies Hecker which is getting a brand new waterborne base this year
I know that in Canada painters  just switched these last years into waterborne and sometimes it&#039;s a little bit rough but you&#039;ll be used to very soon and won&#039;t want to go back to solvent borne, waterborne paint really gives a high end refinish</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi from France to Mike<br />
I&#8217;ve been in Calgary for a while and it&#8217;s a nice place to live in and work in body shop<br />
I don&#8217;t know that much about PPG waterborne except for their high end clear products<br />
As for me I &#8216;m used to Spies Hecker which is getting a brand new waterborne base this year<br />
I know that in Canada painters  just switched these last years into waterborne and sometimes it&#8217;s a little bit rough but you&#8217;ll be used to very soon and won&#8217;t want to go back to solvent borne, waterborne paint really gives a high end refinish</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/comment-page-1/#comment-911</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 Jul 2011 04:46:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/#comment-911</guid>
		<description>Hey Devin, for me personally I LOVE the Iwata W-400LV. It sprays Envirobase beautifully. It has a nice wide fan and is very light which is important for arm fatigue. I would ask your rep to bring you one in so you can demo. I use a 1.3 mm tip for the base and the same tip size for the clear. 

I have three of them and absolutely love the gun.

Give it a try and tell me what you think.

Cheers,

~Mike</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Devin, for me personally I LOVE the Iwata W-400LV. It sprays Envirobase beautifully. It has a nice wide fan and is very light which is important for arm fatigue. I would ask your rep to bring you one in so you can demo. I use a 1.3 mm tip for the base and the same tip size for the clear. </p>
<p>I have three of them and absolutely love the gun.</p>
<p>Give it a try and tell me what you think.</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>~Mike</p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/comment-page-1/#comment-910</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 22 Jul 2011 04:41:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/about-me/#comment-910</guid>
		<description>Hey Donnie, sorry for the slow reply. I am interested in checking out your affiliate program. I will e-mail you directly as per details.

Thanks for keeping me in mind for the program. 

~Mike.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Donnie, sorry for the slow reply. I am interested in checking out your affiliate program. I will e-mail you directly as per details.</p>
<p>Thanks for keeping me in mind for the program. </p>
<p>~Mike.</p>
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