<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: PPG Launches Water Borne Clear Coat</title>
	<atom:link href="http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/</link>
	<description>DEDICATED TO THE COLLISION REPAIR TECHNICIAN</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 23 Jan 2012 23:49:05 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/comment-page-1/#comment-10202</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Dec 2011 02:15:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/?p=71#comment-10202</guid>
		<description>Hey Peter, I would spray a test panel and bake it as you would normally and test it out. I don&#039;t see an issue with it but better to be safe than redoing a vehicle. Try an old old fender first and then see what happens. The EC700 clears will stay open a little longer then the DC3000 DC 4000 clear you are probably spraying now. Apply one medium wet coat of EC700 clear and wait 5 minutes and then apply another full wet coat at 30 psi and you will be good to go. Bake the clear at 140F for 30-35 minutes and let me know what happens when you are all finished.

Thanks very much for the question Peter,

Cheers,

~Mike</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Peter, I would spray a test panel and bake it as you would normally and test it out. I don&#8217;t see an issue with it but better to be safe than redoing a vehicle. Try an old old fender first and then see what happens. The EC700 clears will stay open a little longer then the DC3000 DC 4000 clear you are probably spraying now. Apply one medium wet coat of EC700 clear and wait 5 minutes and then apply another full wet coat at 30 psi and you will be good to go. Bake the clear at 140F for 30-35 minutes and let me know what happens when you are all finished.</p>
<p>Thanks very much for the question Peter,</p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p>~Mike</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/comment-page-1/#comment-10201</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Dec 2011 02:05:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/?p=71#comment-10201</guid>
		<description>Jokrswyld, the new EC 700 and EC 750 clears sand and polish excellent. If you bake your clear it will be ready to sand and polish the next day. You can sand and polish the clear in as little as 3-4 hours if you bake however the next day will be better of course. By the way, I love the DC3000 DC4000 clears, they are awesome.

Thanks very much for the comment,

~Mike.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Jokrswyld, the new EC 700 and EC 750 clears sand and polish excellent. If you bake your clear it will be ready to sand and polish the next day. You can sand and polish the clear in as little as 3-4 hours if you bake however the next day will be better of course. By the way, I love the DC3000 DC4000 clears, they are awesome.</p>
<p>Thanks very much for the comment,</p>
<p>~Mike.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Peter</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/comment-page-1/#comment-10164</link>
		<dc:creator>Peter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:21:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/?p=71#comment-10164</guid>
		<description>Hey Mike,
What do you think about applying EC700 over DBC9700? Will the EC material work alright over solvent base coats?

Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Mike,<br />
What do you think about applying EC700 over DBC9700? Will the EC material work alright over solvent base coats?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Jokrswyld Custom Paint</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/comment-page-1/#comment-891</link>
		<dc:creator>Jokrswyld Custom Paint</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 16 Jun 2011 15:43:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/?p=71#comment-891</guid>
		<description>Noticed some comments on the solvent pop issues, I have had none yet. I have not used the new clears though. What I have been using is DC4000, and DUC2021 as well as DC3000 which has been listed as potentialdie back issues. I have had no die back or solvent pop. I would like to know however, how well the new clears sand and buff?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Noticed some comments on the solvent pop issues, I have had none yet. I have not used the new clears though. What I have been using is DC4000, and DUC2021 as well as DC3000 which has been listed as potentialdie back issues. I have had no die back or solvent pop. I would like to know however, how well the new clears sand and buff?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Joe</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/comment-page-1/#comment-815</link>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Feb 2011 02:47:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/?p=71#comment-815</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the information.  I thought the clear was also a water base product.  At least the base can be considered safer for the booth.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the information.  I thought the clear was also a water base product.  At least the base can be considered safer for the booth.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/comment-page-1/#comment-814</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 Feb 2011 01:12:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/?p=71#comment-814</guid>
		<description>Hello Joe, thanks for the comment and question. With PPG paints, the base coat is water based and the clear coats are urethane. His shop may use PPG Envirobase HP water borne base coat and the PPG Envirobase HP EC700 or EC750. The clear coats are lower in VOCs than the previous lines of clear coats PPG sold. 

He will be better off using water than he would solvent based paints as I believe water is far better than solvent for many reasons. 

&quot;In my most current discussion with him he advised me that he would have to use a solvent clear with the water base. With that I started doing some research which brought me this product&quot;. In regards to this statement, the new EC 700 requires no reducer, it&#039;s mixing ratio is 4:1, four parts clear to one part hardener. The clear coat is NOT water based !!!!

I hope this helps answer your question and if not, please send me another comment and I will find the answers you are looking for.

Thanks Joe,

~Mike.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hello Joe, thanks for the comment and question. With PPG paints, the base coat is water based and the clear coats are urethane. His shop may use PPG Envirobase HP water borne base coat and the PPG Envirobase HP EC700 or EC750. The clear coats are lower in VOCs than the previous lines of clear coats PPG sold. </p>
<p>He will be better off using water than he would solvent based paints as I believe water is far better than solvent for many reasons. </p>
<p>&#8220;In my most current discussion with him he advised me that he would have to use a solvent clear with the water base. With that I started doing some research which brought me this product&#8221;. In regards to this statement, the new EC 700 requires no reducer, it&#8217;s mixing ratio is 4:1, four parts clear to one part hardener. The clear coat is NOT water based !!!!</p>
<p>I hope this helps answer your question and if not, please send me another comment and I will find the answers you are looking for.</p>
<p>Thanks Joe,</p>
<p>~Mike.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Joe</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/comment-page-1/#comment-813</link>
		<dc:creator>Joe</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Feb 2011 22:21:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/?p=71#comment-813</guid>
		<description>I would like to ask a question about PPG&#039;s water base clear.  Can you reduce it with a solvent to speed up the process, or use water only?   Reason I ask is because I have come across a spray booth that has no fire suppression.  I have recommended water base products instead of the solvents.  I understand the adding a suppression system to his booth is expensive and I&#039;m willing to work with him for an alternative.  In my most current discussion with him he advised me that he would have to use a solvent clear with the water base.  With that I started doing some research which brought me this product.  The PPG products sounds promising.  My goal is to make his booth as safe as possible.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I would like to ask a question about PPG&#8217;s water base clear.  Can you reduce it with a solvent to speed up the process, or use water only?   Reason I ask is because I have come across a spray booth that has no fire suppression.  I have recommended water base products instead of the solvents.  I understand the adding a suppression system to his booth is expensive and I&#8217;m willing to work with him for an alternative.  In my most current discussion with him he advised me that he would have to use a solvent clear with the water base.  With that I started doing some research which brought me this product.  The PPG products sounds promising.  My goal is to make his booth as safe as possible.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Ryan</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/comment-page-1/#comment-712</link>
		<dc:creator>Ryan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Aug 2010 18:30:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/?p=71#comment-712</guid>
		<description>Hey Mike,
I sprayed the 750 for my last car on Friday and I liked it with the w400. I can see that it would be a better clear for completes so I&#039;m going to order up some 700 this week.

 I have been using Deltrons DC4010(I think is the lower VOC version of the DC3000/4000) for the last 5 years or so and I can get it to look amazing! But It is such a sensitive clear when it comes to popping and die back even at air dry temps and it buffs like concrete if it sits for more then a day so I have decided to make a switch.

I&#039;m in Southern California and they are very strict as far as VOC are concerned and as I recall they outlawed  DX84 about two years ago. So I will stick with backing it at a lower temp.

Yeah, I noticed on the video you switched from the PPS for your clear. I have never used the RPS before or heard much about it. I thought they were all basically similar and had nothing to do with how clear would lay out. I&#039;m interested to hear the difference. The shop that I&#039;m at is a smaller shop that really keeps a tight end on the paint material bill so I would get questioned if I purchased the RPS when I have been using the PPS for about 6 years now.
 
Thanks for your info Mike!
-Ryan</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Mike,<br />
I sprayed the 750 for my last car on Friday and I liked it with the w400. I can see that it would be a better clear for completes so I&#8217;m going to order up some 700 this week.</p>
<p> I have been using Deltrons DC4010(I think is the lower VOC version of the DC3000/4000) for the last 5 years or so and I can get it to look amazing! But It is such a sensitive clear when it comes to popping and die back even at air dry temps and it buffs like concrete if it sits for more then a day so I have decided to make a switch.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m in Southern California and they are very strict as far as VOC are concerned and as I recall they outlawed  DX84 about two years ago. So I will stick with backing it at a lower temp.</p>
<p>Yeah, I noticed on the video you switched from the PPS for your clear. I have never used the RPS before or heard much about it. I thought they were all basically similar and had nothing to do with how clear would lay out. I&#8217;m interested to hear the difference. The shop that I&#8217;m at is a smaller shop that really keeps a tight end on the paint material bill so I would get questioned if I purchased the RPS when I have been using the PPS for about 6 years now.</p>
<p>Thanks for your info Mike!<br />
-Ryan</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: mike</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/comment-page-1/#comment-705</link>
		<dc:creator>mike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Aug 2010 23:21:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/?p=71#comment-705</guid>
		<description>Hey Ryan, what&#039;s happening! I think the EC 750 is OK, I&#039;m not jumping for joy or noth&#039;in. Its NOT 894 that&#039;s for sure. I cried when I used the last of my 894. Out with the old and in with the new hey Ryan. 

Anyways, I use the 750 for completes ONLY. Everything else I spray is with the 700. With your popping issue, don&#039;t bake it that hot. Only go 150F and you will be good. You can use a cap full of DX84 ENHANCER and that will help the clear harden up better. Also what you can do before you clear is bake the base for 5-10 minutes before you clear. That way you will be rid of the popping. If you use sealer and are using slow reducer, switch to a medium reducer and that will help the popping issue as well.

With your Iwata gun for clear, crack the fluid needle out four threads on the dial and spray at 35Lbs. I find the RPS cups work much better for the clear than the PPS cups. I switched to the RPS cups for my clear and found the appearance looks much better than PPS did. 

One more quick thing Ryan, spray the 700 clear on and let it set up for three minutes then hit it again, I find a little flash time between coats is good for flow and overall look. 

Please keep me informed as to how it is working for you. Thanks for the kind words on the video, I might shoot another soon.

Thanks,

~Mike.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Ryan, what&#8217;s happening! I think the EC 750 is OK, I&#8217;m not jumping for joy or noth&#8217;in. Its NOT 894 that&#8217;s for sure. I cried when I used the last of my 894. Out with the old and in with the new hey Ryan. </p>
<p>Anyways, I use the 750 for completes ONLY. Everything else I spray is with the 700. With your popping issue, don&#8217;t bake it that hot. Only go 150F and you will be good. You can use a cap full of DX84 ENHANCER and that will help the clear harden up better. Also what you can do before you clear is bake the base for 5-10 minutes before you clear. That way you will be rid of the popping. If you use sealer and are using slow reducer, switch to a medium reducer and that will help the popping issue as well.</p>
<p>With your Iwata gun for clear, crack the fluid needle out four threads on the dial and spray at 35Lbs. I find the RPS cups work much better for the clear than the PPS cups. I switched to the RPS cups for my clear and found the appearance looks much better than PPS did. </p>
<p>One more quick thing Ryan, spray the 700 clear on and let it set up for three minutes then hit it again, I find a little flash time between coats is good for flow and overall look. </p>
<p>Please keep me informed as to how it is working for you. Thanks for the kind words on the video, I might shoot another soon.</p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>~Mike.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Ryan</title>
		<link>http://theautobodyblog.com/ppg-launches-water-borne-clear-coat/comment-page-1/#comment-704</link>
		<dc:creator>Ryan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Aug 2010 19:09:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://theautobodyblog.com/?p=71#comment-704</guid>
		<description>Hey Mike, 
What do you think about the EC750? My PPG rep gave me both the 700 and 750. I used all the 700 with every gun I have except my w400LV and I was having some hard times dialing it in.  I have just started to dip into my 750 with the LPH 400 1.3. So far I&#039;m liking it. Just does not dry at low bake temp so i turned it up to 170F for about 30 min and i got some minor pop. So I&#039;m still working on the right bake setting. Also just read some of your previous post about the w400LV. I have one more car to spray today and I think I&#039;m going to break the w400 and give it another chance.
Awesome video by the way! 
Ryan</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey Mike,<br />
What do you think about the EC750? My PPG rep gave me both the 700 and 750. I used all the 700 with every gun I have except my w400LV and I was having some hard times dialing it in.  I have just started to dip into my 750 with the LPH 400 1.3. So far I&#8217;m liking it. Just does not dry at low bake temp so i turned it up to 170F for about 30 min and i got some minor pop. So I&#8217;m still working on the right bake setting. Also just read some of your previous post about the w400LV. I have one more car to spray today and I think I&#8217;m going to break the w400 and give it another chance.<br />
Awesome video by the way!<br />
Ryan</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>

